Temple Tree Resort Pulau Langkawi

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Experience chic heritage homes that weave a tale of their own.

Estate Rooms 2 and 3, Temple Tree, Langkawi. Little did I imagine that our rooms would be part of a row that had literally been transported, piece by piece, from a rubber estate in Pasah Puteh, near Ipoh. Though unassuming and simple, as you would expect, the wooden facade of this row is aesthetically pleasing.

Originally, this 1940s building was a longhouse for Indian estate workers. However, the interior of what was to be our weekend living space – high-ceilinged with broad beams – had been dramatically transformed by an eclectic mix of the antique and the contemporary. Think chandelier, terracotta floor tiles and timber bath-tub.

Old-school elegance: this Chinese house exterior is just a glimpse of the culture, mashed with comfort, that is available at temple tree. – Pictures courtesy of Jacqueline Pereira and Temple Tree

Certainly, it’s essentially stark and austere, but the soothing rugs, colourful cushions and dim lighting ease the mood in the rooms.

The other seven carefully-restored heritage houses, ranging from 70 to 110 years old, are equally stunning. The most popular (and most expensive) house is the Black and White House, a 1940s Malay house from Mantin replete with uniquely-coloured windows. The Chinese House, a farmhouse, built by a Batu Pahat family, comes with large airy verandahs on three sides of the house, offering striking views of the mountains, marshland and the swimming pool.

Decorated in ornate red and black, the wooden walls splendidly contrast.

The Chinese House living room is both cultured and homey.

Another favourite is the early 19th-century Ipoh House, although it is still a work-in-progress. This distinctive dwelling is divided into an Aceh-inspired look at the back while the front is reminiscent of the colonial era. For now, only the awe-inspiring exterior has been restored.

Still, the mansion stands magnificent on its plot, a definitive tribute to its original millionaire tin-miner owners. Adjacent to the house is the Datuk Kong Temple (hence, Temple Tree) in a walled area where two trees now co-exist as one.

The three-year old Temple Tree is an intimate resort with unobtrusive yet attentive staff and a host of furry friends (cats and dogs from the LASSie Foundation; read more below). It invites a particular do-nothing, just-eat-and-sleep kind of sojourn, if you ask me. A typical Langkawi speciality.

But there is plenty to do, even if you don’t want to venture too far from the resort. Its 33.5m swimming pool is just the place to perfect your strokes or simply loll by and top up your tan. Unexplored kampung and beaches lie just around the corner from the resort, and there is early-morning yoga for a great stretch.

Other than the exquisite heritage houses, the excellent food also has to be a major draw for guests, who were almost all non-Malaysians. Served on the verandah of the Eurasian Straits Club House or on a candle-lit table by the pool is an inventive combo of modern Asian and Western favourites. Expect only the most delicious local and fusion fare at Nam Restaurant next door at Temple Tree’s sister resort Bon Ton.

Breakfast is served daily – the night before, in your room. You get a rustic, wholesome platter with juice, milk, toast, fruit, cake and yoghurt. Fruit and local snacks with tall glasses of lemon slices swimming in iced water are served around the pools in the afternoon. For the more curious, there is a cooking class with a market tour, a private Malay Diner, and Wine and Cheese in the evenings.

The ‘Yellow House’, which was a Malay House from Kulim, is now being used as the Pool House.

Animal lovers will be especially entertained by the cats and dogs roaming freely around the resort. You can even volunteer to walk the dogs from the animal shelter next to Bon Ton. But be warned. Don’t be surprised to find yourself a guest in your room, for it seems as if some of the cats actually live there.

The same ones kept returning to our room, waiting for a snack, a cuddle and a stroke. But we did shoo out the ginger one that was curled up in our bed.

Temple Tree is certainly a distinctive place to eat, sleep and do nothing … if that’s what you crave.

For us, and our foreign guest, the best thing about the resort was that it was truly a slice of Malaysia. The restored glory of each house allowed us a view into the country’s colourful past.

However, it is telling that we have to rely on owner Narelle McMurtrie, an Australian hotelier and restaurateur, to realise the dear old houses’ potential. Guests not only have the opportunity to live in them, but also to weave their stories in with those who lived there long before them. 

– By JACQUELINE PEREIRA of allMalaysia The Star

Temple Tree Resort

Laman Padi Langkawi
Jalan Pantai Cenang
Pantai Cenang 07000 Langkawi
Room/Site rates range from RM590 to RM1,290